Taiwan Trip: Day 4 (23/07/2013)

Wakening view!

The air was really cool on that early morning and the fact that nobody was there emphasized the venue’s grandeur and peacefulness. You can’t beat a shiny rising sun lapping a mountain’s bare green face as a wakening view. We went back to the Youth Hostel to have a Chinese buffet breakfast that was so-so considering its price. We bought some snacks and headed to the National Park Headquarters to figure out which trails were open, as frequent landslides and other joys often block the access to the latter. We only took Louis’ bike to allow me to take pictures and videos when he was driving.

The Tunnel of 9 Turns (closed)

We were forced to stop nearby the east entrance of the park as there were works going on to fix what seemed to be a huge landslide. Visitors were only allowed to drive through the area every two hours. We waited about 30 minutes under the already hot sun (it was 9:30am) and then joined the Headquarters. There, we were told that only the (beautiful) Tunnel of 9 Turns trail was closed, which is nonetheless quite fortunate. We started by the nearby ShaKaDang Trail (砂卡礑步道) that traces along the river of the same name at a low altitude. The first part takes you on a path along the cliff that often hangs just above your head.

ShaKaDang Trail

The trail was supposed to be closed after that part but we went on as it looked safe and we could leave the rather numerous non-properly equipped tourists behind (most of them were wearing flip-flops). We continued for about an hour along the river upon a large path until we reached a jungle area where another trail was starting. We thus turned back and couldn’t resist on our way to soak our feet into the crystalline river (though it’s obviously prohibited as the current is quite strong). It felt truly nice as the sun was fierce.

The sky often varies according to the 'ground altitude', being darker above mountains

Driving through the park is thrilling!

Rejoining our motorbike, we managed to be just on time to drive back through the works area without waiting. We then gained altitude and joined Buluowan (布洛灣) to have a set meal (once again so-so) and looked for two short hikes that we eventually couldn’t find. Instead we walked through a resort village that miserably faked an aboriginal village.

The BaiYang Trail entrance

Driving back to TianXiang (天祥), we left the bike at our hostel and set up for the magnificent BaiYang Trail (白楊步道). The entrance is located inside a car tunnel; there’s no pavement so that’s quite a challenge for a start. The entrance itself is a 380-meter long tunnel so you had better not be claustrophobic! We brought a torch that revealed much useful. The path is once again set along a cliff and follows another river; though larger, it is much (much!) higher and there are no fences at all! We were thrilled at times as we’re both a bit afraid of heights. There were very few people so we could fully enjoy the beauty of the flat walk. We passed several tunnels carved into the rock (again, bring a torch!) that also give you some fresh air. The trail takes you to a natural dam where the water rumble is powerfully noisy. A suspension bridge overhangs the scenery and takes you to a wooden platform where you can see the source of this rumbling: the two-layered BaiYang Waterfall (白楊瀑布) running high in the far distance.

Imagine the rumble!

We then pushed to the very end of the trail where a cave is home to a “water curtain”. Though it’s apparently been closed for years, people are still visiting it. We borrowed raincoats that are freely available at the entrance. And they are useful! We walked along a narrow path on the right but that didn’t prevent us from getting a shitload of water upon our heads. The water curtain itself is not much of an attraction but the ‘end-of-the-world’ cave atmosphere makes it so worthy and impressive. We actually saw a two-child family walking with their flip-flops directly into the river stream full of sharp rocks. The children seemed to struggle a lot while the dad was laughing. We sometimes don’t get these people’s sense of responsibility and safety…

                    

                          Proper equipment is key

'Water curtain' cave

On the way back "home"

Back at our Catholic hostel, we refreshed and went once again to the Youth Hostel that is the only restaurant option. While having our snack-dinner, we met a French dad who was travelling with his four children. Quite an effort, especially as they didn’t have their own means of transport! We also met back in our hostel an English mate who was studying geology: we guess he’s going to find all he’s looking for here!

Early dusk at Taroko

The Taroko Gorge has much to offer and is definitely a must-see. We could have easily spent another day as there’s plenty of trails. Just the fact of driving through the park is absolutely stunning. The constant ‘two-sky atmosphere’ (you can see a grey-brownish cloudy sky surrounding high peaks while experiencing a light-blue sky above rivers and in the views of the far coast) adds to the magic of the venue. There is actually so much to see that you might get used to it and lose the uniqueness feel of the place. We can assure you we fed our brains with exquisite memories. Be sure not to miss it if you get the opportunity!

 Fences are optional along the BaiYang Trail...

 

... But the views make it so worthy!